When we first set off on our National Park trip, I was really proud of our efficient route. It looped the entire United States and connected all of our national parks. It was a beautiful piece of travel line art. (I have a problem when it comes to drawing lines on maps – I love it.) Then I messed up the park in Michigan and everything was ‘ruined’; my perfect loop was no longer. We made it all the way up to Houghton, Michigan to get on a boat to Isle Royal NP, only to discover that the park was “still open”, but transportation to the island had been shut down. SO, we took a sad sign picture and drove on. It was supposed to be park number 35 – so we just call it that for the count anyways, because technically we were on park headquarters property when we took the sign picture. Then, about 9 months later, we made it back.
Before setting off, the kitty can always tell we are leaving him. I think he just knows when the big backpacks come down, he is going to be alone for a few days. We tethered him nearby as we packed outside the RV. He explored for a while, but was mostly just sad we are leaving.
This time, we didn’t go back to Houghton, we actually drove to Grand Portage, Minnesota, which is actually closer to the island. We loaded up our gear and jumped on the Voyageur II.
It was about an hour ride to the island – our boat went to Windigo which is the west side of the island. It went pretty fast, honestly. It is really amazing how massive Lake Superior is. It felt like we were out on the ocean.
The park was BEAUTIFUL and the temperature was perfect. We had a little discussion about Leave No Trace ethics and how to backcountry camp from the ranger, and then we were set free!
If we are totally honest, we were a little nervous. This was Theo’s first overnight camping trip. We meant to set up a tent near the RV on the way and “practice” camping to make sure we knew what we needed, but every night it was just too easy to sleep in the RV bed. So, we packed what we thought we would need and just went for it. The scary part is that if we didn’t have something we needed, we were on an island with no way to get said item. Ugh, scary.
I’m sure there are people out there that think we are crazy for taking this little guy with us, but it was seriously SO FUN for us to have him! Just watching him sleep in the tent was fun!
No shame – I love smarties. And not just the regular type – its got to be the Mega Smarties Pack
We packed our snacks and hit the trails. We walked around the visitor center trails, and then up the lake shore trail towards Feldtmann Lake. It was beautiful, fun, and Theo loved it.
We got back to camp and started making some dinner. Then all of the sudden, we heard a commotion in the river right next to us. We had company! This guy came out to eat the grass in the river. We ate our dinner, and he ate his. Always a good time to share a meal with a moose.
We bundled Theo up, and made him a little make-shift sleeping bag out of my jacket. He slept right at our heads so we could keep close tabs on him and help in the night when he woke up. He was so snuggly and comfy!
He woke up early, as usual, and wanted to play. The play time quickly ended and became ‘daddy sleep time’ again.
Madison is a genius and brought hot chocolate packets for our granola. My world was changed – I can’t believe I never did this before now. I really love my wife; she’s brilliant.
After everyone woke up and filled their bellies full of chocolate and granola, we packed up camp and hit the trail. We set our sights on the closest campsite to Windigo (we know it was going to be slow going with Theo, so we wanted to keep the distance short). We set off for Huginnin Cove. We heard good things about it and wanted to see the north side of the island.
As we suspected, we moved down the trail slowly. Diaper changes, extra pack weight, and just general out-of-shape-ness played a role in our speed. We were kind of struggling.
A lot of the trail was in the shade, but there were a few stretches in the open sun. And that was where Theo lost it. Theo did GREAT for the first 2.5 miles. He looked around for the first little while and then just slept in the carrier. But then, with about halfway to go still, he decided he was done. Screaming and wailing we were nervous that everyone on the island would think we were abusing our child. We trudged on, asking ourselves if it is really worth it. We made it to camp, set up the tent, and Theo went right to sleep. He was just tired and uncomfortable.
The cove was beautiful and we were camped right on the water. We had been warned that the lake was very cold. But after packing a massive pack, and a baby, we were extremely sweaty. We were getting in no mater what the temperatures were like!
Once we cooled down, we realized the lake was very cold. In fact, it was making my toes numb. After a bit of experimenting, I found that if you try to just lay in the shallow parts, it is actually VERY nice. I stayed in starfish position for quite a while; it was lovely.
Madison only lasted in the water for about 15 seconds. She found the closest big rock and washed her hair by leaning back and dunking her head. That way she didn’t have to get in again.
Showered, warm, and fed, we were ready for a nice sunset. We walked down the trail a little ways to get a better view.
The golden hour on the lake was stunning. The colors of the wild all came together out there. Madison was obsessed with the moss and the flowers against the rock. The details of the island were so precious.
It was a great end to a great day. We walked back to camp, and went to sleep.
I woke just after sunrise to a perfectly still cove. The water was so smooth and reflected the shoreline like a mirror. Mornings are so magical in the wild, aren’t they?
We got ready for the day, loaded up, and started the second half of the loop back to Windigo. We were really excited for the first part of the trail because it went along the north side of the island. This is actually the only trail that you can walk along the north shore. Theo was obviously stoked for this.
The way back was easier for us. Theo did a lot better. We felt stronger. And we enjoyed the journey a little more. We met some really nice people on the way back that helped us answer the “is it worth it” question we posed about bringing a baby backpacking. The woman, who seemed particularly wise, said that all of the sights, sounds, smells of the wild were imprinting somewhere deep in there. Of course he won’t remember the time we went backpacking on Isle Royal, but when he grows up, he’ll already have a connection to the wilderness. And maybe it was a bit of confirmation bias, because they were a couple of hippie travelers themselves (in fact they sail the great lakes every summer together), but we really appreciated the encouraging words.
When we got back to Windigo, as we waited for the boat to take us back to the mainland, we took turns jumping off the dock. It was still cold, but felt so good after the hike.
We are so glad that we got to go out to Isle Royal. It is a unique place with stunning scenery. The details of the island are meant to be experienced at a slow pace – and that is just what the island provides. I’m so happy that this place will be preserved for generations to come. It is truly a national treasure.
I swiped some of your gorgeous photos. Thank you!
We made it out to the island once (first boat of the season!), but were confined to the east end of the island. Your pictures have reignited the desire to see Isle Royale in its entirety, and I think next time we’ll take the MN ferry! Glad you made it back out, I remember your disappointment on the first trip – this is a much better way to remember what I feel is one of our most amazing parks.
Wow. That is awesome you were on the first boat of the season! So cool. It is an amazing place, that is for sure. There is a real peace that the island gives off, everything is just working so well together and seems so perfect. We loved it.
Beautiful. Thanks for your great photos and storytelling. I ALMOST feel like I could check it off my list. But I should probably go. 😊
We can all go back together! It’s one I would go back to for sure.
Looks like nature at it’s finest. Pristine island with beautiful sunsets. I can almost “hear” the silence.
Thanks for sharing.